How to create perfume: the story of the master class with indie perfumer

in #education6 years ago (edited)

Hello friends!
Besides that I love drawing, traveling and photography, I'm passionate about perfume. I am a perfumer collector and a member of the Russian perfumery community. Our perfumery community organizes lectures, meetings with perfumers. I also visited several master classes from an indie perfumer.

I want to tell you how an indie perfumer creates perfumes for private customers. I will show part of the process.


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My story is illustrated with photographs from a perfumery laboratory, in which several of my lessons on creating individual flavors passed. I was mentored by Natalya Svetlaya, one of the famous private perfumers in St. Petersburg, the founder of the EcoParfume brand, and also a teacher at the Perfume School.

Perfume organ

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Perfumer works for the perfume organ. This is a table with shelves, on which perfume components are arranged in alphabetical order.

You probably heard about the fact that the perfume composition is laid out on the notes - top, middle, base. This separation is based on the volatility of the components. From the top notes - the most volatile, to the basic - less volatile.

In perfume organ the location of perfume components is also organized in the same way. On the bottom shelf there are components of the base notes (resin, vanilla, patchouli), the second - medium (flowers, fruit), the third - the top notes (citrus). The fourth (top) shelf is reserved for the storage of individual molecules and substances. For example, there are flavor fixators, molecules Ambroxan and ISO e Super, on the basis of which the perfume brand Escentric Molecules creates its own perfume or a molecule that creates the feeling of pressed shirts. For example, in the perfume Gris Clair Serge Lutens has such an effect - warm Ironing (or hot iron).

In the photo, all the bottles are the same with simple names "Apricot", "Narcissus", etc.Of course, not all aromatic components are called so. Some of them can be clearly called - "black currant", "Mimosa". These are the bases that are developed by several European perfume companies (Firmenich, Givaudan). This stock which created these corporations and other perfumers. And the other part of the perfume components is incomprehensible long chemical names.

The perfumery organ facilitates the work of the perfumer. My mentor Natalya comes to the workplace even harder. She pours into the same containers with convenient pipettes on the lids, and also puts labels on them, so that the names are more talking. She needs it for training and workshops.


Laboratory supplies

A measuring cup, funnel, glass sticks, paper filters for filtering perfume and a bottle for ready-made perfume are the necessary accessories for creating perfume. The measuring cup capacity may be small. For the initial sample, about 30 ml (1 fl.oz) is required.
Pasteur pipettes are needed to measure the right amount of perfume.


Fragrance formula

I took a picture of the formula of my fragrance, which I did at the master class, to make it clear how it looks. I created a soft suede fragrance with a floral middle in the style of White Suede Tom Ford. All components in the formula are arranged by the degree of volatility.
Almonds-the top note is needed to mask the smell of alcohol. If it is not added, the alcohol is felt first.
Next are the middle notes with floral components-Violet, White flowers, Yes iris component-natural and synthetic (Orivon),
Base notes - SUEDERAL and Thyme imitate suede effect flavor.


Process of manufacturing

I poured into a measuring Cup the base of the fragrance-ethyl alcohol, which is added to the perfume by the formula. In addition to ethyl alcohol, an alcohol-free base can also be used.

The components are added from the pipette by drop according to the formula that is made by the perfumer before the process. This formula is refined during the sample. The most important thing is not to forget to fix on paper all the changes.

The whole composition is mixed with a glass rod. The same wand is a plotter from which the perfumer tries the created composition. If the aroma does not satisfy, the formula is refined. A new stick is used for mixing and the next sample.

HEDIONE and GALAXOLIDE
Galaxolide and Hedione added to all modern perfume. By themselves, these substances have no noticeable smell, except that Galaxolide smells clean. Gideon add to smells was more diffuse and had an aura. Galaxolide is a flavor enhancer having a durability of 400 hours. Mixing with other components in the perfume composition, it gives the entire composition resistance.


The finished perfume composition should be filtered through a funnel with a paper filter in a container where it will be infused. The filter is needed in order to retain undissolved particles of natural components, and to the composition of perfume was transparent without suspension. After filtering the container with perfume put in a dark cool time for 2-4 weeks. At the end of maturation perfume acquire a solid flavor.

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I told you about the technical side of creating perfume. Art creation of perfume is the most exciting and interesting. Once having gone to the lesson on the creation of individual perfume, I could not stop and went there until I realized all my ideas: the aroma of suede with cognac and prunes, suede with delicate flowers, the aroma of grandma's garden with apples in wooden boxes, wood-iris aroma and Sunny fruity aroma of pear with cinnamon and resins.

The process of creating a perfume is very exciting. I wanted to smell all the ingredients and choose the best for my perfume. I, at last, have tried components which smell did not know: myrrh, labdanum, Peruvian balm. I found that some aromatic substances are similar in smell to themselves, while others are not at all similar in color or flavor.

And, of course, to get a good result, you need to go to such an occupation with a ready-made idea, and a perfumer will help to translate it into reality.

Thanks for your support and comments!

@veta-less

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What a story :) What a subject, I enjoyed it so much as a person addicted to perfumes and searching for ''right'' one for the mood long time @veta-less.

@jungwatercolor I'm so glad that some of my friends on Steemit have my associates! I have a lot of perfumes and each for a certain mood :)

Very fascinating @veta-less, I would have a headache sitting in a room filled with perfumes. I'm not very good with the smell of too many scents. :(

@joelai аpparently, you have a very strong sensitivity to fragrances, or there was too concentiated perfume. I have such a friend. I don't wear perfume when I meet her.

Yes, I think I am very sensitive to any fragrances. Thanks @veta-less!

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