Boiled noodles, an island delicacy

Imagine walking down a two lane street that separate a garden marked by history. Now imagine that same garden as a cemetery for Smallpox victims, some two centuries ago. Imagine walking there on a windy day with no vehicle around and hearing the loud caws of crows. Add to the general mood, the Psithurism from the rustling leaves of the Banyan trees. In the vicinity, a dodgy looking bar with the paint peeling off the front façade. Inside the light is dimmed, not by choice but rather due to the poor quality of the light globes. The bar is not usually busy but there is always a constant flow of people coming in and out. Some lawyers or bankers, smartly dressed, some policemen, in their duty uniforms, some homeless, in rags, some women, taking a rest from practising the oldest profession in the world, seated opposite their pimp, or just some random casually dressed. The latter would either be journalists, undercover policemen or just an individual who would have stumbled on this place.

The place smell of fermented beer despite the best effort of a determined old Asian lady trying to mob away the smell from the floor. With her husband, seated on a stool chair behind the bar reading the local paper, they own the bar. In the background, in another room, a cranking sound erupts every now and again. Depending on the day, the engine might be roaring or the hand held crank of the noodles machine. Jimmy, not his real name but his preferred name, is the sole operator. He is the youngest son of the owners. Every day he makes the noodles fresh, using the same technique he has been taught by his now frail dad. The electric machine came much later, at a time when business was good. But still Jimmy tries to alternate his techniques. The dough is always done by hand. But depending on time he may use the machine to make the noodles. In his spare times, Jimmy works as a hawker. You need a branded shirt he has it; a pair of Stan Smith shoes he has one last one in stock, access to an overseas Satellite TV channels, he knows just the guy that can organise that for you.

It is in this particular and peculiar environment that you can eat one of the best bowl of boiled noodles in Port-Louis, the capital of Mauritius. It is truly a unique delicacy. The plate isn’t particularly appealing but the taste is spectacular, be it plain (i.e. boiled noodles sprinkled with spring onions) or with an addition (generally a beef or chicken dish). But the hero of the dish is and remain the fresh noodles. I came about the boiled noodles in August last year. I was busy preparing my daughter’s first birthday party. The night before the party, my friend, charged with smoking the brisket, brought some to taste. In the rush I didn’t prepare anything for dinner. My father in law volunteered to prepare some boiled noodles. My In-laws bought the noodles the same day from some family friends. The latter have set up a side business in Melbourne specialised in making the famous Mauritian noodles. Everything is made from scratch and in the traditional way. They started in their garage but have now moved to a former Pizza Hut kitchen. And we are lucky to have them close by.

I was meant to post this particular recipe last week but didn’t get around to doing it for the simple reason that I didn’t have enough information of the dish’s origin. The Mauritian boiled noodles or “mine bouille”, as it is traditionally known, is considered a Mauritian delicacies. From what I’m told you can get it from all corners of the island. Everyone have their technique or special ingredients, but the end result is always dependent on how fresh the noodles is. The fresher, the better! One thing I’ve also discovered through trying the dish again and again is that you can alter the actual taste. For example if you add white pepper the general taste will be more pronounced and help enhanced all the other elements of the dish. Fish sauce can overkilled the flavour or accentuate it if you love your dish to be salty. Coriander or spring onions will also expand your palate. The recipe below is very simple and straight forward. In case you can’t get fresh noodles try any alternative just to start this exploration.

Ingredients:

• 1 kg fresh noodles
• Fish sauce
• White Pepper
• Spring Onions
• 400g Porterhouse Steak
• 1/4 cup Soy Sauce
• 2 tbs cornstarch
• 2 Tomatoes
• 1/2 green chilli
• 1/2 red onion
• 1 bunch coriander

Method:

1. Cut steak into thin strips and marinate with soy sauce. Place the marinate in a wok and fry slightly.










2. In the meantime in a bowl mix the cornstarch with some soy sauce and water. Add the mixture to the beef and stir until a thick sauce is created. Remove the steak from the stove for serving.















3. If you enjoy a fresh chutney grab some fresh tomatoes, chilli, onions and coriander. Chopped thinly and mixed together. Add salt and pepper to taste.





4. In a pot boil some water with a little bit of salt. When the water has reached boiling point, place a handful of noodles in a sieve and place in the boiling water. Move the noodles around so as not to overcooked them. Remove after 2-3 minutes. 





5. Transfer the noodles in a plate. First pour some fish sauce on the noodles, add the white pepper followed by the spring onions. 















6. Finish plating by adding the steak and fresh tomatoes chutney.

I hope you enjoy it!

Bon appétit!