Ilya Kokorowski about his 9 — month internship at Mugaritz.

in #ru5 years ago

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— could you tell us about your cooking career before you leave?

(I): I got a good school in the restaurant La Mare, where I worked for several years, then an interesting job in two restaurants of vegetarian cuisine "cafe dill".There are probably a dozen other places I've worked on, but they haven't had such a positive impact on me as these. He devoted a lot of time to self-education through internships. the first trip was the restaurant noma denmark (4 months). then mugaritz (9 months).

  • what prompted you to leave for an internship?

(I): Analyzing now all my actions, I understand that I have passed a good way. for the first time to think, not even about trips, but to at least get closer to the world of Haute cuisine, I started 4 years ago, just then I worked in a restaurant La Mare. The reason was found quickly - it was my birthday, I booked a table at the restaurant geranium denmark. I experienced a real shock from what I saw, it was the first visit to a high-level restaurant, the next day early in the morning I went to the restaurant noma, bought a book of the same name, was charged with the atmosphere of this legendary place and went home. There was a feeling that it is possible to make something else, "and suddenly it will turn out to work there" - I thought then. After 8 months of preparation, I went for an internship at the restaurant noma. Arriving back in Russia did not think long about life and what to do next. I became interested in another project - restaurant mugaritz. speaking of the project, I'm not exaggerating, because this restaurant is a milestone in the history of cooking, and if noma is an unsurpassed style, then mugaritz can rightly be called a restaurant with a brilliant concept and philosophy, that's why I went here.

  • share your experience(if not a trade secret, of course))) how does a chef get into one of the best restaurants in the world?

(And): it's not a trade secret, but nothing simple here either. First of all, I lived with this idea for a very long period of my life, and all these projects eventually became part of me. It was just more fun than sitting around with colleagues in stale restaurants.
therefore, I want to wish boundless patience and perseverance to those who want to go this way. Yeah, and it's gonna take a lot of luck.

— how do European institutions accept our compatriots?

(I): it all depends On the person himself, whether he is a compatriot or someone else. There are some nuances - Russian cooks inherent conditions such as laziness, this is a great as sometimes is the basis of human nature. But this is not here and my foreign colleagues do not have it, everyone knows what is going on. Sometimes I have to do self-motivation, you start to forget why you started it all. it's like Buddhist philosophy-don't think about the future or the past, be a part of the present. This simple thought often helps me. So be yourself, respect people and smile ☺

  • is the organization different in the kitchen in Europe and Russia(management methods, positions, procurement and storage, procurement of products) ?
    (And): Yes, of course, there are many differences, but they are in the details literally everywhere. If you delve into the storage of products, for example, the fish is stored overlaid with packages of ice water from above and below, the water is an excellent conductor and the fish keeps a constant temperature and cools faster. And there are a lot of similar examples.
    The hierarchy in the kitchens in Russia is basically similar, there are su-chefs and chefs everywhere, line chefs are under the leadership of senior chefs or chef de parti. By the way, recently I had to take on this heavy burden, sometimes it is quite difficult to coordinate the actions of 10 people speaking 3 languages:) and the rest of the time it is a real fun.
    purchases of products in mugaritz occur on the market system - that is, everything is purchased in numerous markets, both Spanish and French. The purchase of noma cannot be realized at all, as all products come from farms and small farms, which have about 10 of them. many plants and berries are collected independently in eco-zones. This huge work as you know is worth it, in order to make sure enough to look at the well-known list…

how's your day at the restaurant ?(chart the highlights of the work activities)

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(And): the standard working day at mugaritz starts at 8:30. the earliest birds — a production kitchen, which is the primary processing of products, then at 9:45 comes the whole team, after 15 minutes all going to the main kitchen for a briefing. it discusses the details and shortcomings of the previous working day, as well as specify the menu for day service, food allergies, etc. After what sounds like a ritual to come out the second 50 people with great speed scatter to their stations, and later there is a second briefing with the leaders.
The service time depends on the number of people, but in General about 4 hours, then the long-awaited break and everything is repeated again. The restaurant has 9 positions in each, depending on the workload works from 1 to 5 people. Tasting menu-is 32 positions of periodically changing dishes, the replacement of dishes occurs when the season changes or if the product of proper quality has not been found. There is always a reserve for replacement, so in General, every year the creative Department generates 45-50 new dishes.
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Do you meet Russians in foreign restaurants (as chefs) ?

(S): still haven't met anyone, maybe not there looking for;)

  • what's the point of the place?

(I): the essence of the restaurant, like any other institution from the first 10 Ki - is to Express their emotions by means of dishes, the beauty of the region, to emphasize the importance of every detail, any component will be logical and meaningful, like the logic and beauty of the world around us. often the set menu consists of 30 items, in itself, each dish can not claim to genius, but the whole menu reveals to the person the idea that the cook wanted to convey to him, and in General it will give an unusual experience and wonderful memories. All that is done here one way or another has this simple goal.

  • will you tell us about future payments?

(And): First of all, I plan to return to Russia, many friends do not understand this, but I want to do something worthwhile at home. Then want to go to work on a new project, a lot more coming... Much later there may be a small trip to other noteworthy restaurants. This is very motivating, does not get bored, I have long realized that I can not without new experiences, new traditions and visions.

— why, in your opinion, in Russia there are no restaurants marked with Michelin stars?

(S): Michelin star — it is the policy, and therefore this badge of honor may not lay claim to objectivity. Take a good project, implement it in Russia and Europe, in Russia you will not get anything, and there this star will Shine for you. Such examples already exist.

  • wishes to compatriots who want to undergo training abroad.

(I): to achieve this goal, there is one secret - it is not enough just to dream sitting on the couch, your unique idea needs to be fueled by real planned actions, otherwise your idea will become just a dream.

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