The Utter Joy of SurfingsteemCreated with Sketch.

in #surfing6 years ago

"The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport."
- Kelly Slater -


From the instant I read it,

there was nary a doubt in my mind as to how to deal with this week's 50 word challenge.

"Break" is the word of the week.

For me, there is only one primary, overriding meaning of that word.

Our sweet fellow Steemian, @jayna, threw down the gauntlet to write 50 words about "break."

There is one 'break' that is dear to my heart.

That break is...

my surfing home break.



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Offshore breezes shred the wave tops.
Image courtesy of Roger Mosley and http://pixabay.com

Don't surf?

Then you'll never understand...

But I'd love for you to understand. Take up surfing, and you will.

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Bottom turn on a perfect left...
Image courtesy of Kanenori and http://pixabay.com


The Utter Joy of Surfing

by Duncan Cary Palmer

Crystal blue winter morning.

Trunking it, joy overcomes the chill.

An offshore Santa Ana shreds the wave tops. Brilliant rainbows sparkle in the air, visible only out here. We bob up and down, waiting for the perfect ride.

"Good morning, Duncan!"
"Good indeed!"

My home break; everyone knows my name.


~FIN~



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Crystal blue sky winter morning...
Image courtesy of Jennifer Beebe and http://pixabay.com


P.S. If you have an "in" with anybody at Steemit, Inc. - Would you please ask them to get rid of these damn, extremely annoying "off-website" arrow/boxes? The have, overnight, made Steemit ugly. There are much better solutions.


For an extensive collection of surfing stories,
please check out our Library Surfing Shelf - CLICK below:


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LOOK! Check out our amazing product:
SILVERengines
Introducing: The SILVERengines proton - Image by @creatr
CONTACT US - Will Exchange for Steem


Thanks for your time and attention.
You are why I'm here on Steemit!
I have very eclectic interests and hope, over time, to write about them all.


⬇️To Check Out @creatr's World⬇️CLICK Each Image Below⬇️

@creatr @creatr @creatr
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Really awesome pics! I would love to try surfing. :)

If you ever have the chance, do it!

I def will, it's high up on my things to do lol

You really conveyed the joy of surfing in this. Can't help but smile picturing the waves @creatr :)

As an Aussie who has lived most of her life by the sea. I am ashamed to say I have never surfed. Your story makes it sound like a lot of fun though, more sun and less swallowing salt water than I imagine.

Greetings, @gmatthe2!

Thanks so much for your visit to my blog.

I truly hope that my story will inspire you to borrow a surfboard and give surfing a try.
I also hope you'll drop in here and let me know how it goes! :D

Cheers!

I have always wondered how surfers can endure the cold so much, aside from using wetsuits of course. I don't live anywhere close to where there would be a possibility to even try surfing a bit. Instead we have ski hills lol.

Ah, yes, a good thing to wonder!

When I was surfing regularly, I would surf in my trunks--no wetsuit-- all year round, with water temperatures often below 60 degrees F.

Excellent comment
Pez Vela Liberado.png
I am a lover of the sea, although I have not had the opportunity to surf, my inclination is the navigation and fishing of big fish.

Thanks for reading and commenting.

love it... Makes me want to grab my board, hop in the car, drive to the West coast and hit the waves!! Such a buzz..

Yeah, surfing is the bomb! :D

Dear friend @creatr
Impressive your weekend fun, the contact with the waves of the sea must be very invigorating, where I live the waters of the sea are always calm however I imagine with your photos as they are.

I encouraged myself and now I participate again in the challenge of @jayna. Here I put my link , I have also given resteem to your post. Regards

The ocean and surfing is truly invigorating... Thanks.

In addition one feels small before the immensity of the ocean. Regards friend @creatr

I guess I can't understand but I hope to someday!

What an incredible experience he describes about surfing. Here in Venezuela there is a beach called "Playa el Agua" on the island of Margarita that the people enjoy their waves to surf to ... It would be spectacular to experience that experience, of course it requires being in physical and mental form and above all: "know swim"

Ah, yes. You should know how to swim!

But even some who do not have experienced surfing by going with a friend, and wearing a vest.

I hope you can experience it one day, Yoselina... ;)

Ah, that is a lovely story, @creatr! It must be an amazing experience out there in the ocean, especially when a nice big wave rolls in and you ride it in.

Every spring for the past four years I have taken a trip out to San Diego for a conference, and I just love to walk the boardwalk and the beach, watchingg the surfers catching the waves.

Next time you're in San Diego, don't miss the chance... It is awesome. :D

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