Visiting ancient cliffs from Devonian Period

in #travel6 years ago (edited)

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Up in the north of Latvia hides probably the most beautiful park in the Baltic states - Gauja National Park. It is famous for its picturesque views, variety of landforms, great biological diversity, sandstone exposures, old castles and other historical monuments. Founded in 1973 it is the first national park in the territory of Latvia of that time. In 2004 it was added to Natura 2000 – European Union network of specially protected areas for conservation of nature diversity.

The most popular archeological objects in Gauja National park is Gutmanis Cave, Erglu cliffs, Zvartes rock and Sietniezis rock.

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River Gauja


River Gauja is the most beautiful river in Vidzeme region and the whole Latvia. It is 460 km long and a bit less than a quarter of it is in Gauja National Park. River Gauja reaches its maximum depth at 85 m near Sigulda city. It started to form in Devonian period 370-380 m. years ago, which makes it older than dinosaurs. It is when all of the picturesque sandstone layers of River Gauja and its tributaries formed. Its current look formed 12-13,000 years ago when glaciers withdrew.

In ancient times River Gauja was a trading waterway between Livonian and Latgallian lands. At least 18 ancient fort hills, many burial fields and settlements is a proof about the density of the past population on banks of River Gauja.

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In ancient times word “gauja” in Latvian meant a large amount, so River Gauja means basically large river. These days in both surviving Baltic languages this word means something more like a gang or a pack.

First half of the day 1: Exploring eastern part of Gauja National Park


One of the possible destinations is a small town Liepa in the eastern part of the park. Right here in the town you can find Liella Ellite, do a 9km hike to Licu-Langu cliffs and if it’s not enough visit Sietniezis rock up in the north.

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Licu – Langu Cliffs Hiking track


This hiking track starts in Liepa town near Liela Ellite and leads you through Lode Clay-pit to Licu-Langu Cliffs located in the middle of the forest. With a distance of 9 km it is accessible for most of the people, just be prepared for a few steep slopes. There is a total of 8 big springs in the Licu-Langu Cliffs, as well as 9 caves and alcoves. If you want to enter the caves it is recommended to do it with a guide.

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Liela Ellite


Liela Ellite – Great Hellhole is an ancient cult site and one of the oldest tourist destinations in Latvia. Emerged as a result of rock mechanical erosion and is formed from a slightly tinted sandstone. It boasts 3 big arches that remained from much larger cave holes and has a spring flowing from it. First mentioned in 1791 and is speculated to be more than 7,000 years old.

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Lode Clay-pit


It is located between small town Liepa and the primeval valley of River Gauja. Disscovered in 1953 by a local geologist J. Slienis and became famous in 1970 when another geologist V.Kuršs for the first time in the world discovered a well preserved fossils of Upper Devonian armored fish and Strunius kurshi fish. These days the clay-pit is used by the company “Lode” which produces bricks.

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Licu Cliffs


Licu Cliffs is the Crown jewel of this destination for me. It is 200 m long, 30 m high cliff in the middle of a forest. At the north end of it you can find Licu Ravine, several meters wide, up to 7,5 m deep and 20 m long, with a cave (9 m deep) at the end of it. This complex was formed by a spring that flows next to the cave and forms a stream, rushing down toward the River Gauja.

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Langu Cliffs


Langu cliffs is a smaller brother of Licu cliffs, nevertheless it has a high number of caves and springs.

The Langu Alcove is similar to Gutmanis Cave, it is 10 m wide, up to 3,5 high and 6 m long.

The Great Langu cave is 48 m long, instead of a floor you find yourself in a spring which reaches 4 m depth at the end of the cave, called Bezdibena avots (Bottomless Spring). Sandstone caves are unstable, and it is very dangerous to enter it, due to this reason we didn’t enter it. If you want to, do it with precaution.

At the foot of the Langu Cliffs, four powerful springs flow from the steep slope over a distance of 100 m.

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Second half of the day 1: Exploring central part of Gauja National Park


After completing the hike head to Erglu Cliffs which is the MUST SEE tourist destination in Gauja National Park is situated only 6 km from Cesis Castle, which is recommended to visit between visiting Erglu Cliffs and Liepa town.

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Cesis Castle


Livonian Brothers of the Sword began the construction of Cesis Castle in 1209 and it served as the residence for the Teutonic Order’s local master between 1237 and 1561. Once the most important castle of the Livonian Order, it was partly destroyed during the Great Northern War and remains not as only the most impressive ruins in whole Latvia, but one of the most impressive castle ruins in the whole Baltic sates.

It working hours are 10 – 16 h and costs 6 € – adult.

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Erglu cliffs


Erglu Cliffs in the terms of size is the most magnificent archeological object of the ancient valley of River Gauja. It is found only 5,5 km north of Cesis on the left bank of River Gauja for about 0,5 km with ranging height of 18 to 26 m. Like most of the objects in the valley of River Gauja, the cliffs formed in Upper Devonian, but Erglu cliffs are unique, because you can easily observe iron compound marks on layers of it.

The steep and majestic cliffs is one of the most popular tourist destination in Gauja National Park. One can observe River Gauja standing on it or descend to observe the cliffs itself. But probably you get the best view if you just rent a kayak and observe it from the river.

The legends tell that the echo against the cliffs sounded like the organ and that is the reason why they were called Erglu cliffs (Organ cliffs).

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Zvartes Rock


From a parking lot near Zvartes Rock head northwest through Raganu Plavina (Witches’ Meadow) and a bridge over River Amata. Your objective is to get on Zvartes krauja (Zvartes Cliff) from which you can observe not only Zvartes Rock, but Witches’ Meadow, River Amata and surrounding region of Gauja National Park.

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Miglas Iezis (Fog Rock)


On your way to Zvartes cliff on the right bank of River Amata, next to the old overgrown riverbed, stands Miglas Iezis (Fog Rock), a protected geological monument with a local importance.

Zvartes Rock is one of the most popular tourist attraction points in Gauja National Park, dating as old as Upper Devonian (350 – 380 mya). it is 20 m tall and according to an old legend, Zvartes rock was once a gathering place for witches. At Raganu plavina (Witches’ Meadow) you can test your agility on an interactive hiking track. At visitor center you can learn more about old herbalist lore, medical plants, rocks and folk tales.

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Zvartes Krauja (Zvartes Cliff)


You can find it right next to Zvartes Rock on the other side of River Amata from parking lot. With 44 m in height and 200 m in width, it is simply impossible to miss this one. Zvartes Cliff is easily seen from parking lot itself and should be your main destination on this part of the trip. It provides you with the best view I’ve seen in this park.

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River Amata


River Amata is one of the swiftest tributaries of River Gauja nad you can find numerous archeological objects in its valley, making it probably the most interesting river in the park besides River Gauja itself. It the short, distance from railroad Riga-Valmiera to the place where it meets River Gauja, over 20 exposures of dolomite and sandstone can be seen on the banks of River Almata. 10 of them are protected geological monuments of national importance.

If you still have stamina and time for sightseeing you can do Amata Geological Trail to see the untouched nature of the valley of River Amata and even more rocks!

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Day 2: Exploring western part of Gauja National Park


A good way to start the day, if you are residing in Cesis, is to go to the Araisi lake first. It opens at 10:00 so there is no point to leave earlier than ~ 09:40 depending on your exact location. You can find it ~8km down in the south from Cesis Castle.

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Araisi Lake Fortress, Araisi Castle and Stone Age Settlements


Araisi Lake Fortress is one of the ten lake fortresses in Latvia. It has been built and inhabited in 9th – 10th century by a community belonging to Latgallian tribe. The fortress was built in the lake on low, overflowing islands for defensive purposes, fortification system was similar to fortifications of fort hills. Aaraisi Lake Fortress is the first so extensively excavated and reconstructed lake fortress in North-eastern Europe.

Araisi Castle was built in during the times of Livonian Order and inhabited in 14th-17th century. The remains of the structures reflect the building traditions of German medieval castles, while the ornaments and agricultural implements found here indicate that a significant proportion of the castle residents belonged to the indigenous population.

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You can find exposition of ancient settlements in Meitu sala (Girl’s island), southern end of the peninsula extending into Lake Araisi. While no actual Stone Age settlement sites have been discovered here, some tools from those times were found during excavation works of nearby fortress and castle. Together with a reconstruction of Stone Age house you find buildings from Bronze, Late Iron ages and Mesolithic period, which gives you an insight o into the development of ancient dwellings.

You can visit it all for 2 € – adult – between 10:00 – 16:00 h.

After visiting Lake Araisi be sure to go to Zvartes Rock if you haven’t done so yet. Most people of our group were impressed by it the most.

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Sigulda Castle


As almost old as the Livonian Brothers of the Sword who built it in 1207, just 5 years after the first order formed outside the Mediterranean region. River Gauja and its tributaries was an important asset during the crusades as it was used as a waterway. Adding land roads which were already in place the region ended up not only with the biggest concentration of castles in Latvia, but in whole Eastern Europe.

You can visit Sigulda Castle to feel its medieval aura between 09:00 – 20:00 for 2 € – adult.

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Turaida Castle


Turaida castle is an outstanding monument to medieval architecture and archeology. It was the administrative and economic center of Riga archbishopric. The construction of Turaida Castle started in 1214 and extended until 16th century.

It is one of the most investigated Stone Castles – Fortresses in the Baltics. You can visit it together with the whole Turaida Museum Reserve complex for 6 € – Adult. Woking hours: 10:00 – 17:00.

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Up to the beginning of XX century, the ruins of Turaida Castle main Tower lasted out at the height of ~27 m. 1936 the remains of tower were strengthened, and a sighting platform was additionally build on the top of it, from which you can observe not only the whole castle, but the surrounding region as well.

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Gutmanala Ala (Good man’s cave Cave)


Gutmanala cave is the most visited, the biggest, the oldest and in various information sources, the most described cave in Latvia. An archeological monument since 1967, the cave, based on the numbers of the years inscribed in the ceiling, is the oldest tourism object in Latvia. Currently the oldest date in the cave is from 1667. There is also information found in German literature sources that until 1812, the year numbers 1521 and 1564 have been remained on the walls of the cave.

Please not that it is strictly forbidden to engrave your own name in order to protect ancient inscriptions.

It is also the largest grotto in the Baltic: 10m high, 12m wide and 18.8m long. The spring that flows from the cave used to be sacred and its water – healing.

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Further road leads to Gutmanala Cave little neighbors: Viktor’s Cave and the small cave; hill fort of Krimulda Castle; cable cart from Krimulda to Sigulda, Krimulda Manor and Krimulda itself.

In case you have some spare time left, you can travel further to the west to visit Velnala cave and its smaller siblings. In case you have an extra day, you should probably spend that time around Ligatne or rent a kayak and observe the park from a different angle. One way or another, if you find yourself in Baltic states, and want to see the best of nature it has to offer, Gauja National Park might be a good idea not only for tourist attractions, but for active exploring as well.

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If end-up going to Gauja National Park, please, message me or share your impressions down in the comment section. In case you’ve already been there and disagree, please, share it as well. Thank you, for reading and until next adventure!


Interested in Baltic States? Checkout this article about Medieval Old Town of Estonia capital - Tallinn: https://steemit.com/travel/@ctdots/tallinn-old-town-hidden-medieval-gem-of-baltics

Author: Mantas Ališauskas
Photography: Mantas Ališauskas
Website: http://www.ctdots.eu

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Fantastic article and photos. Thank you for showing me this place. I have been to Latvia but missed going here. Damn.

Well, I'm living next to Latvia and I only learned about his place last year. Feels like smaller eastern countries doesn't get out as much information about their worthy tourist destinations as counterparts in the west. So, I'm thinking to make as many posts as possible at least on the Baltic States.

Also, thank you for the encouraging, that s really what keeps me going doing this:)

Yes a great idea. When I was in Latvia I only stayed in Riga, then straight to Vilnius. Never venturing out of the cities. I didn't know how. But it was winter and freezing when I visited ha.

I remember the bus to Vilnius, near the border on the Latcia side, we stopped at a petrol station and there were caged bears out the back. I would of loved to have seen more. Now I will look out for your posts. :)

I can feel you, I visited Tallinn this year and it was so cold that all I could do was visiting museums and chilling somewhere inside.

Hm, the bear story sounds interesting even to me. I'm not sure about Latvia, but officially there are no bears in Lithuania with a few exceptions of spotting them a few times a year.

Well hope you'll get another chance to visit Baltic States:)

I loved your photos, they're incredible. Also, I checked some other posts in your feed, and I'll be following to see what you post in the future :-)

Thank you a lot! I'm plannign to stop posting random photos and more articles like this, so I won't be spamming you:) I followed you as well and hope to talk again in the future. Have a nice one!

this post is just amazing, so much great photography and cool locations, waaw nice work 👍🏻 ⛰ traveling is everything!

Thank you a lot and I totally agree that traveling is everything. And in my personal experience I enjoy traveling when I understand what I see when I explore. That is why I try to share some basics for others to make their own exploration deeper.

nice words, continue posting good work

  • have a great day and greetings to you!

Well, its not that hard to talk nicely about things you love to experience:)

Thanks! Have a nice day and nice to meet you!

Nice post!

Latvian is on my list for next year, while exploring the coastline from the Baltic Sea for some windsurfing. Good to know there is a lot more to explore 😉

We'll cross Lithuania as well, so I'll start following you hoping for more posts like this.😎

Thank you! An interesting trip you have planned, hope you enjoy it:)

Gauja park is really worth checking out and if you'll be traveling along the coastline is not that far. It is really close to Latvia's capital Riga and it is coastline city.

I'll definitely will post about Lithuania and there might be coming more about Latvia, Estonia or Baltic Polish coastline as well.

I followed you back, if you need any tips for your trip on the region, just let me know:)

Greetings very interesting and complete post excellent pic I love the photography success.

Thank you a lot! Even though I don't consider myself a photographer, I take it quite seriously, because that is how everything started for me. When I understood that I dont have as many memories from the past as I would like to I started to document it by taking pictures of it. After that I started to research more about what I am visiting or find exploring and now I try to share it with others.

Thannks again and have a nice day!

Beautiful! I've never seen photos of the Latvian landscape.

As a local Lithuanian I traveled a lot around the region and I can say that this park has an unique landscape for its surroundings. There might be something similar in Estonia, but I still need to research and xplore it more later this year:) More typical landscape of Latvia would be forests, swamps and sandy beaches:)

I find that everywhere I go, people in general do not have an appreciation of their local natural treasures. For example, I lived near Mammoth Cave National Park but the locals took it for granted...it was as nothing special to them even though people traveled from all over the world to see the world's longest cave system! The same is true of my friends who grew up near the Great Smoky Mountains National Park...they could see the peaks, but had never gone hiking or camping there 😩

That sounds crazy to me how someone could not appreciate hiking in the mountains. But it only adds to what you say, I live in a flat region and until my country didn't join schengen zone, it was not easy to see them. Same goes with the beautiful forests, swamps and winters we have here, which I started to appreciate only recently as well:) It is a strange thing that we dont value what we have already as much as what we don't.

Amazing photos! It is great that you are giving so many a chance to see a place they not only are likely to never visit on their own, but also a place that most probably didn't even know existed. Thank you for taking us on your journey with you.

This post was nominated by a @curie curator to be featured in an upcoming Author Showcase that will be posted mid-evening Monday (U.S. time) on the @curie blog. If you agree to be featured in this way, please reply and:

  • Let us know if we can quote text and/or feature images from your post.
  • If you would like to provide a brief statement about your posting, your life or anything else to be included in the article, you can do so in reply here or look me up on Discord chat (@randomwanderings#9929 ) or even through email to randomwanderingsgene at gmail .com

You can check out our previous Author Showcase to get an idea of what we are doing with these posts.

Thanks for your time and for creating great content.
Gene (@curie curator)


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Hello, thank for your encouraging words and reaching out!:) I checked out your previous Author Showcase and I think it is amazing what you are doing. Keep your work as well.

Answering your questions:

You can use any quote text and/or feature images from my post;
If you want my word, you can add what got me writing:

Back in the days, when I've started to explore the nature, I was alone. I thought that most of my friends will think that what I'm doing is silly, but I was wrong. Soon after some of them joined me on my travels and throughout the time I've felt how it changed my life for better. And what is even more important, I've seen that when we are traveling my friends tend to smile way more that usual. So it made me wonder that all we needed was a small push or inspiration, and I thought maybe I should not just seek, but share as well.

Thanks again and hope to hear from you again:)

Hi @ctdots, I just stopped back to let you know your post was one of my favourite reads and I included it in my Paddling Nature Ramble. You can read what I wrote about your post here.

And congratulations on your Curie!! Great job!

Hello, nice to meet you. Thank for your kind words and sharing my article, that really encourage me:)

I followed you and looking forward to see more of your Paddling Nature Ramble:)

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