Solo hiking Slieve Donard Part I

in #travel5 years ago


Disclaimer: this is going to be a long one

For my vacation I planned hiking Slieve Donard, Northern Ireland’s highest peak at 850 meters. Weather forecast at my hiking day seemed slightly better and less windy. Few showers that were promised did not happen and gladly so, you will understand why later.

First of all, let me tell you that I am by no means an experienced hiker. This was my first solo mountain hike. Nothing in Latvia, which is where I am from, qualifies as a mountain. Our highest “mountain” Gaiziņkalns is only 312 meters high. Only real mountains I’ve hiked before were in Norway, but even then, if my recollection from nine or ten years ago is correct, we were taken halfway up the mountain before we began our hike to the top. Was I well prepared for this hike? Not at all, but off to the mountain I went.

6:00 am I was dropped off in Newcastle and quickly found my way through Donard car park in the forest area where I could hear the Glen river flowing. Follow the river. I was nervous and excited. In the car park I passed a group of serious hikers gearing up and thought to myself well at least I have this pack of wolves as a pointer if I get lost as I already knew they would pass me at some point. I was right. Other than the pack there was not a single soul out there at this hour or so it seemed.



Path along the river was very slippery, vet, and muddy. Rocks, tree roots, and sharp bushes all over. The pack passed me at the second bridge and there was no way I could keep up with them. My pace was going to be slow and careful since I was out there alone. Besides, I wasn’t going to be rude and tag along on someone else’s adventure. I was on my own adventure!





The Donard ice house

In the old days before the invention of refrigerators, ice houses were built to keep food fresh throughout the year. Some of them were caverns dug deeper into the ground where the temperature was lower under the layers of the soil similar as in mines. My grandmother had  such a structure at her old countryside house where she stored harvested vegetables and jars of jam.  

The Donard ice house was built around 1840's and it is an igloo type of building built from rocks found around the mountain. Ice was taken from the Glen river and placed at the bottom of the building. It was then covered with a layer of insulation such as hay, straws, and moss to keep it from melting. Then all sorts of goods were stored above to keep them fresh longer.





After admiring the ice house for a while I remembered about the rock I was supposed to bring up to the summit. I found a white granite rock for white thoughts and placed it in my backpack before continuing up the river valley towards the saddle between Donard on the left and Commedagh on the right. I was enjoying the cheerful bird songs coming from the pine forest on my right and everything was simply wonderful. I forgot about my nervousness from before.







Once I was closer to the saddle the wind appeared getting stronger and path turned a lot more steep and rigid. This is the spot I realized the easy bit is over and I have to be more careful with my steps. Falling on rocks and gravel, taking a tumble down the valley or slipping on mud was not an option! I decided to put my camera away for most of it and focused on making progress with the ascent.











Climb was quite challenging. I kept thinking how the hell I will not roll face first down the valley when I come back. It is hard to tell in the photographs how steep this thing actually is. It began to worry me a bit again. I figured that while climbing upwards is physically harder, especially when your hip is falling apart, going down is actually way more dangerous.







First glimpse of The Mourne Wall

The Mourne Wall was built between 1904 and 1922 to keep farm animals away from The Silent Valley reservoir. The wall is about 35 km long and it is built from rocks all the way crossing fifteen peaks all together. There were no cranes, no helicopters to assist with building the wall back then. All this was done by hard work of people. Can you imagine carrying all those rocks and hanging around the mountain building at no matter what weather? Be it rain, wind or cold.





Black retriever mix greeted me at the saddle between Donard and Commedagh followed by two hikers happily returning from Donard. I enjoyed the view for a short while and tried to catch my breath before beginning even steeper the hike up along the wall. The wall sheltered from the wind quite well.



Hey buddy! Will you race me to the top?





I was hiking towards the summit for about ten minutes and then this happened...



All of a sudden I felt like the hedgehog in the fog . What? How?

To be continued in part II

Sources: The Donard ice; Ice houses; The Mourne Wall

Song of the day: Fleetwood Mac - The Chain

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Hiking is something I have never tried. I don't know why. These pictures are beautiful and that wall is amazing. I think humans were stronger and more resilient back in the day than now. Technology has not helped.

Did the slug get to the stop before you @m31

You should try, it is really refreshing experience.

Technology has made us more stationary. We are built to move. That is why we have so much health problems these days or actually most of them. For example, I mentioned about my hip falling apart, it's from all the sitting, from lack of circulation and things like that. My current job involves a lot of moving and my condition has improved. I am mostly in pain when I am not moving.

Ahaha! It just teleported to the summit. They were all over the mountain :)

Oh so it's quite possible that it got there before you. You won't be able to tell the difference.

I agree with you. I am indoors for weeks, sitting or lying down. I used to enjoy long walks but the last time I did that I realised how weak I had become. It is sad that the more we develop in science and technology, the worse our physical constitution becomes. The humans of the age of artificial intelligence will be interesting to see

Didn't realise Latvia is so flat! thought UK was flat as our highest mountain Ben Nevis is just a bit over 1300m.

You were very brave to go hiking on your own !

Yes, it is pretty flat, but it is like elven forest with rivers, lakes, bogs and white sandy beaches. Hope to share more of it soon as I return home end of July :)

I was really nervous about it and locals told me stories about people who've lost their lives on this mountain as well. In seemingly not too dangerous spots. Made me extra cautious. Specially because I was on my own most of the journey.

Those mountains looks like a rugged mountain that will be difficult to climb. I don't actually remembering spending my vacation like this though. Vacation time is always great

It depends. For someone who trains for mountain climbing or are really fit and have no health issues, this would be a pretty easy mountain. Path is mostly designed by human hand using rocks from the mountains.

What I know for sure. People often make a mistake assessing their own physical limitations. It is usually a lot lower than what we think. Also someone might appear very fit, but they are simply not trained for endurance or strength.

Vacation time is indeed great. We rest in different ways :)

Wow. You are right

I didn't think there was going to be so much rock wall and stuff like that around there. I also stupidly imagined a lot more trees :D

I think the fog is great to shoot in and while most like to see the view from the tops of things, it adds mystery to the photographs that clear skies can't match.

I did not expect the wall to be so long either actually. When I spoke to locals about it, they did not indicate in any way of cool that thing actually is.

Yea it was like a small patch of trees and even then some were ripped out with all the roots. You'll see.

It shocked me, how quickly it appeared seemingly from nowhere :)

First, thank you! Thank you for climbing the mountain and being awesome and taking all these pictures to share with us and sharing your experience here. I seriously can't stop looking at the photos. Our spaceship can be really beautiful sometimes, you know? Especially through the right person's lens...

It is hard to tell in the photographs how steep this thing actually is.

Yeah, I'm noticing that. Our sense of orientation must be a pretty big contributor to our perception of steepness. The pictures probably look a lot more level to me than they do to you, too, because you've been there! I have to kinda remind my brain that I am looking "up."

I was enjoying the cheerful bird songs coming from the pine forest on my right and everything was simply wonderful. I forgot about my nervousness from before.

This sounds like a wonderful feeling. I am very happy that you got to experience it. Just looking at the photos, reading your words, I know it must be an absolutely stunning place to be. I think I'd like to hike a mountain someday, too. Maybe I will even find a slug buddy of my own, who will probably beat me to the top :D

I am so glad I ended up going. Would have been such a loss. Somehow being there made me feel like the hobbit going on an adventure. You know hobbits usually don't do that, but they are still quite curious and scared at the same time. So I was totally a hobbit on this journey. All alone, a bit scared, but really curious and just wanted to explore.

There is actually one photograph that I will share in the part 3 that is closest to show the steepness of it. Somehow I managed to capture it. You'll see. Hopefully!

If you hike this exact mountain, you will find a slug buddy for sure. They were all over it. I had to be careful not to step on them xD

It was truly amazing experience that taught me some things about myself. Would not trade it for anything! Hope you get to hike a mountain as well! :)

Rugged mountain terrain, reminds me on my trips over Velebit and Paklenica in Zadar :) Cant wait to go again, I love it, surrounded by huge cliffs and mountains feels so epic. And they also have these rock walls erected a long time ago.

Absolutely! It felt like I stepped into the realms of some ancient gods standing there surrounded by the majestic mountain giants. Nothing quite like it :)

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Transported. Makes me miss Britain. The fog, the stones.... magical.

Hey @riverflows thank you for stopping by! Gald you found something that reminds you of the place that is magical to you :)

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