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RE: Bumps & Bruises - When Girls Play With Surfboards... And Win!! 😜 [New Surf Video Inside]

in #extremesports6 years ago

Oh my god I was full of scrapes growing up - they were a mark that I was one of hte boys really, though I hate that now - what I was was ME, just having a go. I still have scars on my feet from fin cuts, I used to do this stupid foot wrap around thing when I duck dived and sliced my feet really badly, stitches and all, I still can't flex that foot as much as I used to. And then learning to SUP ten years ago, that first summer of waves, falling over all the time. The board I rode had a rough sandy surface, not grip, you know? And my toes were just bleeding messes from kneeling in wind trying to stand up, and I had bruises all over my shins from falling onto the board over and over and over - far out. I learnt at 37 and felt like a kid again, but gee it was awesome, and now I am still surfing waves on a SUP - I rarely fall off, but a couple of months ago I went out stupidly in the wind, like far too windy, which I can kinda hack, but the waves were bigger than I thought and I went to go over the top of one and the wind blew the board back and it slammed between my paddle and board and I ripped my finger open. Lucky this surf school guy was on the beach and carried my board up (it was down a long flight of stairs) and he gave me his apple. He was cute too. I could play the defenseless woman then, fuck it hurt and my legs went shaky - it was so windy and there was blood every where and I was kinda worried about sharks lol.

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