The Land, The Plot, The Bed and The Plan A four part series on land development-Part 2 The Plot

in #gardening7 years ago (edited)

The Land, The Plot, The Bed and The Plan
A four part series on land development

In July of 2017, I took out a long term lease on a piece of land which needs some prudent management. It has been in my family for over 60 years, during which little care was taken into account for the long term development.

I have already started some work on restoration, reclamation and development of access ways, gardens, grazing areas and hydrologics.

This is a four part blog on the development plan and techniques I am using for the improvement of the property.

Some parts will be dry and technical, but a basic understanding of the process for is necessary a person to apply or modify such techniques on their own property.

link to part 1 of 4
https://steemit.com/permaculture/@torquewrench1969/the-land-the-plot-the-bed-and-the-plan-a-four-part-series-on-land-development

Part 2 of 4: The Plot

A plot is a land management measurement designed to allow the agriculturalist to determine fertilization, watering, production and manpower usage. The size of a plot is not arbitrary, but a personal choice with many attributes taken into account.

The existing geography of a piece of land, prevalent winds, rainfall, irrigation availability, sun exposure, noise, equipment to be used, fire potential, production goals, time available to work and many other factors can influence the size of a plot.

Each agriculturalist will have their own peccadillos when laying out a plot. None of the are wrong and all of them could be further optimized for a given goal.

For this particular piece of land, I have chosen to go with six 30 inch beds, 50ft long on 4 foot centers, allowing for an 18 inch walkway between each bed. This will make the plot approximately 24 feet by 50 feet, totaling 1200 square feet.

The actual cultivated area (production area) is only six rows, 50 ft long and 30 inches wide , for a total of 750 square feet .

Prudent placement of plots on the landscape is essential to success. Placing plots without forethought can lead to soil erosion, water loss, flooding and a plethora of other negative aspects which you and your neighbors may not enjoy.

Placing plots with the rows on contour may be beneficial in dry areas, but can lead to excess water in areas of high rainfall or high clay content.

I generally layout my plots to have 1-3 inches of drop (slightly off contour) over the length the beds. This allows excess water to drain off and also allows for flood irrigation if necessary during the 3-4 month dry summer months.

To determine the drop of a piece of land I use a homemade water level. Ill write up a piece on the construction and use of a water level at a later date.

Placing a plot with the rows running north-south can lead to excessive evaporation in areas with prevailing north-south winds, but if the slope of the land is to the east, arranging beds on an east-west orientation can lead to erosion.

30 inches is not an arbitrary number for a planting bed width. That is the size my equipment is designed to make, the beds are narrow enough to step over if necessary, irrigation lines are short enough to be placed and removed by one person and calculating water, fertilization needs and production is fairly easy!

Example of water demand calculation:
Calculate bed area in inches (length X width in inches):
50 Ft= 600 inches

600 inches X 30 inches = 18,000 inches^2

Weekly water demand: 1.5 inches

Water needed per bed:
1.5 inches X 18,000 inches^2 = 27,000 inches ^3
27,000 inches^3 = 15.625 Cubic feet
15.625 Cubic feet X 7.481 gallons/cubic foot = 116.9 Gallons

Water needed per plot: 116.9 gallons X 6 beds = 701 Gallons.

Its much easier using the metric system, but old habits die hard.

Example of Production Calculation:

A 50 foot row of Contender green beans will generally have two harvests.

The first harvest averages 25 pounds and the second harvest will yield about 15 pounds: (25+15) X 6 = 240 pounds

Having a standardized bed size for a production farm also allows a farmer to calculate profitability and plan production:

50 ft X 2.5 ft X 6 = 750 square feet in cultivated area.

Green beans 240 pounds @ $1.75 per pound = $420

$420 / 750 square feet = $0.56 / square foot.

As an economic baseline goal I aim for $1.25 per square foot per year cultivated, so beans may not be economical unless a different crop can be planted and harvested before and after the beans.

In this case, an early spring planting of lettuce, radish, beets or kale may be in order, then plant beans, with a late planting of garlic or carrots after the bean harvest. This can boost production per square foot per year dramatically, making the endeavor more productive and more profitable.

Now for some crappy videos of me prepping, planting and harrowing some beds for winter production of wheat and sorghum in an attempt to draw deer into bow range for my winter meat supply.

If you don't like the video, don't gripe... volunteer to make my videos better!
I'll pay you in Steem.

End of Part 2

Note: All proceeds from this blog go to land restoration and agricultural development!

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Nice tractor! We got a BCS 739 earlier this year and was a HUGE upgrade over our electric tiller. This reminds me that if I want to get some fall cover crops going now is the time. It's been dry as a bone here lately though!

The BCS has made farming/gardening much easier and more fun. So much more flexible than a regular roto tiller.

We're well under our normal rain average in northern oklahoma by at least 1.25"

If you havent looked at part 1, I would recommend it.

https://steemit.com/permaculture/@torquewrench1969/the-land-the-plot-the-bed-and-the-plan-a-four-part-series-on-land-development

super video thx for share.

@torquewrench1969
you ding great in his your and project...and truly a hard worker...keep it up...we are here to support genuine efforts.. thanks for sharing this...

thank you for your support!

Welcome and do find time to check my blog posts too

definately!

Good job on the eggs!

Thanks dear...I appreciate

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Nice! Thanks for the videos. Excellent information as well.

Seeing how you tilled, I think I did it wrong last year when I tried it. Also, do you typically plant in the hills instead of in the troughs? I think I did that wrong too...I think I'm seeing a trend here...

Gonna resteem this. :)

@alanman
nice comment and questions ... knowledge they say is power... i wish you all the best in your planting... but wouldn't winter hinder your work?

It does slow me up a bit, but not as much as most would think.

Many crops/cover crops can be planted up until mid October in some years.

Over half the seeds I plant, I plant with the hopes/expectation that they will "die".

The roots of the plants and trees bring up nutrients that are unavailable in the shallower soils. When those plants die the detritus of the plants/trees is redeposited in the upper soil layers.

Many of the fungi and bacteria that break down the detritus tend to operate more efficiently at lower temperatures, hence accelerating the nutrient availability in the spring.

The fall/winter plant roots (after "death") aerate the soil and produce water pathways within the soil, allowing for deeper water penetration, reducing the effects of drought.

The bacteria which are decomposing the biomass of the plant produce glomulin, which acts as a biological glue, forming soil aggregates, holding them together and reducing the potential of erosion.

To sum it up, the field work is lighter in the winter months (November thru mid-February), but soil sampling, counting biologics with a microscope (fungi, bacteria, micro-arthapods, nematodes, etc), calculating production demands, fertilization/amendment desires etc. all need to get done.

Not less work, just different work.

Sorry for the long answer.

Thanks for the question!

Look at this for a bigger overview of my project:
https://steemit.com/permaculture/@torquewrench1969/the-land-the-plot-the-bed-and-the-plan-a-four-part-series-on-land-development

Great and detailed answer and I love it as knowledge is power... Keep it up dear...

I always plant the tops. The troughs generally get mulched for water retention.

There's a lot more to the bed than is apparent. Thats my next post

Trying to lure the deer into range is a great reason to work so hard. Looking forward to the rest of this series.

@homesteadbuilder
nice comment... do you also engage in agriculture and land reclamation... what of poultry...

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Your videos aren't that bad, actually, though I'm still more partial to reading texts. The water level is the hose with the two ends mounted on upright sticks, am I right? I like the idea of planting crops to attract deer in the winter. What kind of bow do you hunt with? Oh, and congrats on this super successful post!

Right on the spot about the water level.

Generally I use a 65# compound bow, but when it gets really cold and my shoulder starts hurting I'll use my 100# crossbow.

First things first. I had to look up what peccadillos meant. I'd never heard that term before. I quite like it.

I also didn't know there was a handy dandy formula for determining water demand. I'm telling ya', this entire post has been nothing but a lesson. Thank you. I can't wait for part 3.

Good work very detailed and well prepared I have to say. All credit to you your putting in a lot of effort there. Can't wait to see it taking shape. Great ! :)

There's definately more to come!

Thank you for your support!

I very intrigued as I want to Purchase some land and go off grid, so very interested in your progress :)

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