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RE: The view from tthe board

in #life6 years ago

Not much break there? When I was surfing daily on my GEE Escape Rainbow triple fin board 5'6" slasher, in Florida the biggest problem was crowds of rude surfer punks who thought they owned the ocean.
When I surfed in California the water was so polluted it made me sick every time I surfed.
When I surfed in the Gulf of Mexico it was a hassle cleaning all the Oil off your board and wetsuit after surfing. They even handed out TAR-OFF at the hotels in Galveston.

But some days when I could sneak out and no one else but a few friends were there it was awesome. There is nothing like catching a wave.

The best break I ever surfed was in New Smyrna Beach Florida Breaks to the left and right all day long.

I am land locked now and have not even been swimming for a few years.

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