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RE: The Wisdom Of The Surf...

in #music6 years ago (edited)

This is a topic i can relate to 100% and it's interesting to read your take on how surfing crosses over into other areas of your life.

I also used to dabble in music and there are definitely aspects of flow that are present in both endeavors. As someone who's prone to over think things, surfing rips me out of my regular thought patterns and lets me be truly in the moment, and lets me truly enjoy the present. There's a state of flow in music too, when you're just there almost as a vessel for the music that's coming out of you.

I've been to Indonesia for several epic surf trips and really it's a surfer's paradise. In Indo, you have the privilege of choosing when and when not to paddle out because there's always another swell on the way. Back home, not so much... often I choose to go out in crap surf because i need to get out there. Sometimes I'm chasing the flow, sometimes i need some good exercise, and other times it's to chill with the boys. I think there's a meditative state to surfing, the ebb and flow of the waves and the sound of displacing water has a soothing affect on my mind and body.

This is getting longer than I thought, and i could go on and on but I'll stop here.

pura vida

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