Inside the Grand Canyon: Havasu Falls
Many people have seen the Grand Canyon from the rim, but I was lucky enough to spend a couple of days inside the Grand Canyon at Havasu, Mooney, and Beaver falls on the Havasupai Reservation. A friend and former roommate was lucky enough to get a permit to access the area. Generally speaking, permits for the entire year sell out in a matter of hours.
The trail head, I use that term loosely because its a gravel parking lot in the middle of nowhere with stray dogs and natives trying to sell you Gatorade and other things that a savvy traveler and backpacker knows they don't really need, is about 3.5 hours drive from just about anything remotely resembling a urban settlement. You will most likely have to rent a vehicle to get there. The drive is rather featureless and we arrived not long after dark. If you can, sleep in your vehicle, settling up camp and trying to sleep in a gravel parking lot is not a pleasant experience... and if you need to pee, take your flashlight because pretty much the only solution is to pee over the edge of the rim.
It is a stunning 10 plus mile hike through layers of descending canyons which are remarkably cool and pleasant. Be careful of the pack trains of horses that the tribe operates as they push them through there hard at a quick jog. They will run you over. Also, please for the love of God do NOT use this service, the animals are often gaunt and bleeding and once you reach the native village you will be near tears looking at emaciated animals in squalid conditions.
The campground is beautiful and you will be awed by Havasu Falls, the real one, not the crap ass town near Lake Havasu. The water contains heavy sediments that turn the water a milky blue and its other-worldly.
The campground has reasonably good pit toilets and is just something you won't find anywhere else in the world. I recommend bringing a backpacking hammock. We went in October and the weather was chilly at night and warm to hot during the day.
Mooney falls in the photo above is even more inspiring and taller than Havasu Falls. However, the climb down the nearly 100 ft ancient rocks is not for the faint of heart. I will tell you that this climb was probably one of the most frightening experiences of my life and I've fought forest fires, gone sky diving, and driven through Costa Rican rain forests at night alone.
The slippery descent is assisted by smooth handholds and a rusty chain both soaked by spray from the waterfall. One must make this descent though if one wants any real experience in this magical place for two more waterfalls and lush canyons with winding trails through mesquite and other greenery await, as do more precipitous climbs.
The trail is several miles long and there and back will take the majority of the day. It is said that you can follow the trail all the way to the Colorado River but we did not do this due to time constraints. You would not want to attempt the return trip and subsequent climb up Mooney Falls in the dark.
Remember, there is no real possibility of a timely rescue if you get hurt. This land and trail is controlled and maintained, if you can use that word, by the tribe.
This trail adventure and the three waterfalls are the only real attractions for this trip so plan accordingly. I will add that this place is peaceful and relaxing and I have never felt as calm in any place.
The climb out is a difficult one, especially the last part, because it is basically switchbacks up a vertical cliff face. Plan to leave early for a 4 to 5 hour hike and then a 4 hour drive back to your destination. Pack as light as possible.
For instructions on how to make reservations and all other pertinent information regarding making this trip a reality check out the link below, this is more comprehensive information than I have provided here:
https://www.wildlandtrekking.com/havasupai-waterfalls/reserve-havasupai-permits.html