RE: Memory Flows: The Things That Shaped Me
Wow, this post is mesmerizing! Certain aspects I recognize as my own.
No, my father didn't surf. Yes, his house, his rules.
Snow on the beach!!
And, in fact, my young days as a surfer on a homemade board I bought for $15 was a bumpy ride indeed, pearling the front end nearly 100% of the time!
Surfing at 12 years old is a reflection of my young life: lots of fear; not understanding the internal queries, no one to ask, yearning to fit in. T-god for the Atlantic Ocean in summer. Wonderful existence as a child!
I arrived onto my own road less traveled in 1989, 29-years young, en route to fatherhood, ready to give all that I did not receive, with the goal that these motives would make a difference.
Today, 3 young'uns launched, and my personal adventure aligns pretty well with your green horse lorrie! Been many places, touched many hearts, braving judgment from home convention...and keepin' it movin'!
Peace and smiles to you...and much appreciation.
Snow on the beach!!!!! Wow, where is that??? Gorgeous. Thanks for sharing this!!!! We do remember our first waves, and how we felt in the water. Special times. Gawd that photo! It's sublime!
Barrier island off coast of NJ, USA. For 4 years, I lived there during the "off-season" from 1st October to late May. This lil hamlet swells to 100k beach frolickers from May to September. In winter, it's solitude perfect.
It used to be Solitude perfect around here as well during winter comma with a seasonal population the developers got in, sadly. Sounds like a beautiful place.
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