What an incredible experience he describes about surfing. Here in Venezuela there is a beach called "Playa el Agua" on the island of Margarita that the people enjoy their waves to surf to ... It would be spectacular to experience that experience, of course it requires being in physical and mental form and above all: "know swim"
Ah, yes. You should know how to swim!
But even some who do not have experienced surfing by going with a friend, and wearing a vest.
I hope you can experience it one day, Yoselina... ;)