Hooray you sexy readers! How are you? Are you ready for yet another crazy story on the road? Hop on board.

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When everybody thinks I've run out of craziness to talk *BANG*, the mighty explorer returns from the ashes with yet another funny story.

If you don't believe me, I'll give you just a tiny dab of what will happen. I've basically visited the great Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentina, but of course, being myself a broke backpacker, I just couldn't go there the normal touristic way. It took me one night to move from El Calafate to Perito Moreno - It's only 75 km, come on! However, hitchhiking there was incredibly fun, despite taking me a lot of time, because on the way I've met some great people, which you'll read about on this story. Enjoy!

^{Click image to enlarge!}

Obs.: This story is part of a bigger journey that I plan to tell you one day. Since it would be incredibly long I've decided to release parts of it, featuring the most crazy bits. It'll not follow an order of events, but I'll put it in a way that you can read as parts of a book. Hope you enjoy.

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This happened when I was hitchhiking Argentina and Chile in summer 2017. Carrying only the essentials and little money for the journey. I had left Buenos Aires in early January with the main goal to reach Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the americas. Plan was plain an simple: Work if needed, camp, hitchhike all the way, have loads of fun and let my desire guide the way. 

I've written on my travel diary.

On the night of 17th I had planned to sleep by the Roca Lake, but I discovered that it was too far.  On the way I've met Tanya and Esteban, they immediately became my friends. With them I've spent the night, talking and having fun. The other day I've met Camilo and Regina, they took me to Perito Moreno and later to El Chaltén. Without a doubt one of the most amazing places I've ever been. Now it's time to cook, I'll write when I can.

January 16th, 2017. I had just gotten to El Calafate, Argentina. I took a ride from Torres del Paine in Chile to El Calafate with an incredibly well educated elderly couple. They taught me about the patagonian steppe and the the meaning of Calafate.

     - Do you know what Calafate is, Arthur? - Rafael asked

     - I've heard it's a plant, isn't it? Some sort of berry. - I said.

     - And... did you know that anyone who eats a Calafate berry will, one day, return to Patagonia again? - He said.

I sat there, thinking about what he's just said and trying do understand his spanish. Maybe I should have taken some time to eat a bunch of Calafate if I ever wanted to come back to Patagonia.

     - Why do you say that Rafael? - I asked.

Rafael then started talking with a deep and calm voice.

     - Well... Arthur. It all goes back to the Tehuelque times. Once the harsh patagonian winter arrived covering the fields with deep snow, the tribe would go north seeking for food. In one of this journeys there was an elderly healer that was too weak to go, she wisely told the tribe that they could go and she'd wait for them once the winter had gone. The tribe built a hut and left her with a stash of food. She told that she wouldn't feel lonely, because the birds would make her company. When the tribe came back, the elderly healer was still alive, but deeply sad for the solitud. What happened is that, with the snow arrival, all the animals and birds had left letting the old woman alone in harsh conditions.  She then prophesied that when she died she would turn into a tree that would give some berries so, even in the winter, the birds would still be there, thus no one else would be alone. That's how the Calafate tale has started. - Rafael said.

It felt incredible hearing that tale from the locals themselves, not through books or silly videos on youtube. His calm voice added a lot to the story telling, making me even more curious to learn more.

We continued our trip talking about the various argentinian stories, geography and exploration times. How amazing those two person were. They would teach me everything with a lot of enthusiasm while I silently paid attention, to later remember everything to write on my travel diary.

My arrival to El Calafate followed the same old routine of a broke backpacker: Find a place to sleep and a shower, as cheap as possible. El Calafate however, is not the type of city to receive people like me, at least from what I've seen. I got there during the evening, tired from the journey, thus I've decided to let go some money and go to an organized camping. I desperatly needed a shower and a bit of city exploration.

The place of choice was called El Ovejero Camping, 100$ Pesos for the night and unlimited shower. Super! Plus it was inside the heavily touristic city, that way I set my tent, took that well deserved shower and went for a walk.

The city was quite interesting, full of tourists going up and down the meticulously arranged streets. I visited the city's museum where I've learned about Francisco Pascasio Moreno, the explorer of Patagonia. I also went shopping at the local supermarket; for a broke backpacker, food is gold, I've always carried in my backpack food to one week.

^{Francisco Pascasio Moreno (Buenos Aires, 31 de maio de 1852 — Buenos Aires, 22 de novembro de 1919) also known as Perito Moreno was a scientist, naturalist and explorer of the Austral region. Click image to enlarge!}

January 17th, 2017. Time to find better solutions, another night there and I'd consume my scarce money on comfort I didn't need. I grabbed my backpack and headed to the city outskirts, plan was to hitchhike to Lago Roca on the way to the Perito Moreno Glacier. Sounded perfect. Didn't work.

Well... only if it was that easy! I've spent all morning trying to hitchhike out of El Calafate. I danced, I used my thumb, I wrote a sign. Nothing.

Time had passed, it was already 1400 PM when a nice guy stopped.

     - Hop on, amigo! - He said. 

     - I have no idea where you are going, but I'm sleepy and could enjoy some talking. - He continued.

I'm not the type of guy to refuse a ride, so I jumped into the car and off we go!

     - I'm going to Lago Roca, are you going there? - I asked

     - Yeah, I've seen your sign. I'm not going there, but I'll drop you on the entrance. The lake is only 5 km from there, you can easly walk. - He said.

Ok, 5 km. That's easy peaky, in 30 minutes I'm there, I thought. We continued our ride talking about various thngs I'll never remember. The guy was funny and friendly. He dropped me on the farm gate that leaded to the lake.

     - Take care, amigo! See you one day! - He said.

There I was again, alone in the wilderness, away from those frenetic tourists. I dressed my backpacks and crossed the road to start my '5 km' walk. On the gates a young hippie style couple was sitting with their bikes laying on the grass. They seemed friendly so I approached.

     - Hola! Are you coming from the lake? Is it far? - I said.

     - Hola, que tal? No... we wanted to go there, but it's 30 km! - Tanya said.

     - What?!? 30 km? I've heard about 5... - I said.

We sat there thinking about our correlated misery, trying to find a solution. We all wanted to do the same thing: Spend the night and visit the Perito Moreno Glacier. It was so simple, yet so complicated. I guess broke backpackers always find each other when things go wrong and that day those two became close friends.

     - So guys, we are f***. Would you like to stay together and maybe sleep by the side of the road? - I proposed.

     - Sure, why not? We've been thinking about asking the farmer over there for a place to set the tents. - Esteban said.

In front of where we were, a small farm house seemed to be inhabitated, so we thought it would be a good idea to ask for a small space, just to set the tents for the night. We crossed the gates when three big dogs came directly to us, barking freneticaly. Our hearts froze, we immediately stopped in fear of those ferocious creatures. After the dogs, came the middle aged farmer wearing his beret and boots, he seemed friendly yet strong and truculent, from the heavy work. His first words were to calm down the dogs, but the ones who needed to be calmed down were us. I could barely breath.

     - Quieto! Pasa para allá! - He said to the dogs in a harsh spanish.

     - Come on chicos, they are not going to attack. What do you want? - He continued.

     -Weh...Well.. sir. We'd like to ask permission to spend the night on your land, tomorrow we're going to Perito Moreno. We won't bother you... - Esteban said.

     - Hmmm, for me there's no problem. But I'm just a worker and my boss is not here. I'd need to talk to him. - He said.

While we were talking to him a red pick-up was comming from the dirt road that leads to Lago Roca.

     - Look! That's the owner of the farm next door! Quick, talk to him! - The farmer said.

Esteban left running and whistling to call the man's attention. He stopped. Tanya and I stayed with the farmer, waiting for the answer.

     - Guys! He told that we can stay in his property near the river. The house is abandoned and no one will bother us there. - Esteban Said.

Lucky day! We've not only found a place to stay, but it was near a beautiful, crystal clear river. We thanked the farmer for his patience, and for holding the dogs away from our skinny bones, and moved to our new 'house'.

It was the perfect place; inside a private property, meters from a river and near the main road to hitchhike to Perito Moreno. There we've set our campsite and spent the rest of the day having fun and washing clothes at the river, Tanya had placed a clothesline on some trees, that came in handy. That is the life of a broke backpacker in the middle of nowhere, you wash clothes in rivers, and to be be honest... they become cleaner than washing at home. Esteban also tried to fish that day, but nothing bit the bait, to our starving misery.

^{Click image to enlarge!}

January 18th, 2017. Esteban and Tanya had woken up earlier than me that day. We had planned to hitchhike to the Perito Moreno, but agreed to separate, making  greater our chances to get a ride. I took all the time in the world to do all my morning duties while they were already trying to hitchhike. After one hour no one had stopped, why couldn't our life be easier?

    - Change of plans! We're going by bicycle, meet you there. - Tanya said.

Being alone on the road I've started playing my 'rocks' game. It consists of thowing small rocks as near as possible to the white line painted on the asphalt, the one who places it closer wins. In this case, only myself would win. Isn't it fun?

It didn't take long for a car to stop for me, Camilo and Regina, a young chilean couple took me with them. Later they would also become good friends.

Reunited again with Tanya and Steban, and now with Camilo and Regina, we all entered together in the park. We'd make a lot of jokes on each other and talk about our journeys while waiting for the buses that take the tourists from the entrance to the viewpoints. Man, those guys were funny.

When you get to the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (Los Glaciares National Park), you'll have to pay a fee, not exactly cheap, but worth every single penny. From the entrance small buses take the tourists uphill to the viewpoints, during all the route you don't see the Perito Moreno glacier. Getting up there you still don't see the glacier. Interesting, I though. My curiosity was kicking in hard.

Once up there we got off the bus and prepared our cameras to walk the trails, everything super organized, all the trails are marked and built like wooden walkways.

I remember the first nature manifestation.

     - *brrrrrrrrr-boooooooom!* - I heard that thunder sound coming from down the valley.

     - What the heck?!? Is it gonna rain? But it's sunny! - I though.

My friends quickly run down the walkways, so I realised what those thunder sounds were. It was the Perito Moreno glacier, moving and breaking and moaning. Amazing!

The great Perito Moreno Glacier has five kilometers of width and almost seventy meters of height. It looks like The Wall from the tales of George Martin, so huge and alive. It's name comes after Francisco Pascario Moreno, the reputed researcher of the austral regions. The glacier is not only a beautiful place to visit and photograph, but it's considered one of the most important fresh water reserves in the World.

Did you know that the Perito Moreno Glacier is possibly the only one in the world that is not loosing mass?

It is one of those places where you must go early, so you'll have all day to simply sit there and watch its show. From time to time you hear.

     - *crrrrrrrraaaaaaaack-booooooooooooooom-shhhhhhhh* - Sounds from the gigantic pieces breaking and hitting the water.

^{I capitured a 40+ meters ice breaking loose. Click image to enlarge!}

To my left a brazilian girl was desperately trying to take the perfect selfie, she seemed incredibly mad for not being able to take the damn photo.

     - Ah this sun, now my face is too dark, now my face this and that... - She was saying.

Then everytime she turned around to try to take her selfie, a gigantic piece would fall, hence making her miss the show. And now she would be mad that she missed the ice fall. I felt so sorry for her, what vanity can do to a person, damn Instagram ruining true contemplative moments. But that is none of my business.

We've spent all day there, just looking at the nature's show and having fun with each other. I've seen people crying, laughing and most of them would say *Ohhhhhhhhhh* at every ice fall, some clapped. But most of us agreed that nature is indeed really powerfull, and that we need to take care of it.

At the end of that day I'd separete from Esteban and Tanya, maintaining contact only through cellphone messages. Camilo and Regina gave me a ride from El Calafate to El Chaltén, where I'd stay a bunch of days living in the woods. But that is reserved for another story, you'll need to stay in touch.

^{The great Perito Moreno Glacier. Click image to enlarge!
A sexy guy, Tanya, Esteban, Regina and Camilo. Click image to enlarge!}

I would love to hear from you. Have you ever visited Perito Moreno Glacier? What are your impressions? Would you like to visit? Feel free to leave your comments down below.

If you liked this post, please, consider leaving your upvote for a hot coffee.

~Love ya all,

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Disclaimer:  The author of this post is a convict broken backpacker, who has travelled more than 10.000 km hitchhiking. Following him may cause severe problems of wanderlust and inquietud. You've been warned.

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I'm Arthur. I blog about Adventure Stories, Brazil, Travel, Camping & Life Experiences.

Follow me to stay tuned for more craziness and tips.

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